Rays from the setting sun spill through the cracked windowpane of an open garage. The tiny dust particles catch in the soft light, swirling ethereally around cars used in the time of our great grandfathers. Phonographs, paraffin lanterns, antique water pitchers, wooden wheel barrels, time appears to have stopped long ago. However, its 2008 and one of Uruguay’s oldest estancias near the town of Carmelo is in its sixth year running as a refurbished luxury bed and breakfast.

The estate dates back to 1732 when an esteemed Spanish architect built the nearby Narbona chapel. In the early 1900s Italian immigrants moved in, bringing with them vines transported from the best terroirs in Europe and the tradition of making delicious cheeses. In 2002, owner and developer Pacha Canton had the vision to refurbish and bring back to life the historic estancia. He found some of the best interior designers, staff, and cheese and wine makers, to emulate the life and flavours of the early 1900s.

Photo by: Sanra Ritten

The rooms adornment of crystal chandeliers, plush white cushions, and simple elegance borrowed from another time is important but it’s the spectacular food that sets the place apart from just another up-scale boutique hotel. Behind the scenes of the relaxing, elegant bed and breakfast, there are people artfully making fresh pastas, artesian cheeses and Tannat. The gastronomy of Narbona is what makes the place so interesting, the history and work behind each delicious morsel and drop of wine.

The view from the two guest rooms overlooks Narbona’s greatest asset: the vineyards. Nine hectares of the emblematic Uruguayan grape, Tannat, stretch out over the rolling hills into the horizon. While Narbona does produce a Viognier and Pinto Noir, its Tannat is arguably the best.

Photo by: Sanra Ritten

Carmelo is one of Uruguay’s biggest wine producing regions and its wines have special characteristics due to it’s unique geographic location. It is located just two kilometres from Punta Gorda, where the Río de Uruguay ends and the Río de la Plata begins. The temperature of the Río de la Plata at this latitude is significantly warmer than anywhere else due to the proximity of the Río Paraná estuary, which brings warm water from the centre of South America.

While Tannat grapes are picked in the middle of March in other parts of Uruguay, they are not picked until the end of the month in Carmelo due to the warmer river temperatures. These extra 15 days allow the fruits to further mature, thus producing wines of higher quality.

Other factors of course play a part in distinguishing the Tannat from Narbona to those of others, from the calcite rich soils to the deeply rooted tradition of hand picking the grapes.

Photo by: Sanra Ritten

Uruguay, the small country that it is, is actually the world’s largest producer of the grape. Originally from the south-western part of France, it grows well in South American soil. Even though it best pairs with Uruguay’s favourite food, beef, Narbona’s infamous parmesan cheese can hold its own against the rather tannic, deeply coloured red wine.

Jorge Jaen, the master cheesemaker, has been working at Narbona since its conception and before then he made cheese with his Uncle for 20 years. Each day, about 3,000 litres of milk are taken from the 100 cows on the property and made into fine quality mozzarella, colonia and parmesan cheese.

Photo by: Sanra Ritten

The parmesan cheese from Narbona is special and has a unique flavour because unlike most, it is guarded in the cooling rooms for four years. Technically parmesan cheese can be stored for just 10-12 months and even most other high quality parmesan cheeses in Argentina are only stored for two years. The extra time sitting on a shelf in a temperature-controlled room intensifies the hard Italian cheese’s pungent flavour and flaky texture.

For those interested Jaen, or his apprentice, will give tours of the tambo. One can see the hoses that pump the milk fresh from the cows, the sterilised rooms where the fermentations are added to make the different cheeses and the salt baths where the cheeses bob around for days on end. The tour ends with a tasting in the storage rooms where the smell from the rounds and rounds of maturing queso is so intense it’s almost intoxicating.

Photo by: Sanra Ritten

Back in the restaurant’s kitchen, the chefs pair the cheeses with their culinary soulmate: fresh pastas. Egg fettuccines, ham and ricotta stuffed sorrentinos or spinach and cheese canelones, nothing is more delicious than hearty servings of homemade pasta with freshly grated parmesan cheese fit for an Italian king.

The menu at the restaurant is simple – pasta dishes, platters of meats and cheeses or salads straight from the organic garden – yet decadent: very much in tune with the rest of Narbona. It is a place to relax and enjoy the simple things in life of the very highest quality.

Photo by: Sanra Ritten

Narbona could have been the country house of an aristocratic family of South America in the early 20th century. So be warned, don’t go there with a peasants (ie backpackers) change purse. For more information or to make reservations check out www.fincanarbona.com .

Just ten minutes ago the white sands of Playa Cerro Chato were dotted with a few beach blankets and sunbathers. However, the people begrudgingly head for shelter as the infamous winds in the national park Santa Teresa gain momentum and waves of sand tumble down the coast.

While most people head to Punta del Este, Punta del Diablo, or Cabo Polonio those adventurous few who are not deterred by unreliable bus companies and useless park rangers head to the blue waters and soft rolling dunes of Santa Teresa, in the Rocha province in Uruguay. Each summer visitors are drawn to its beaches and the park’s other main attraction, it’s namesake.

Until 80 years ago these same unceasing winds and shifting sands hid one of Uruguay’s greatest historical treasures, on a perch not far from Playa Cerro Chato: the Fortaleza Santa Teresa.

Photo By Sanra Ritten

The pentagonal shaped fortress, started by the Portuguese in 1762 and finished by the Spanish years later, was the site of battles between the Spanish and Portuguese, the Spanish and English, The Spanish and indigenous tribes, the Uruguayans and the Portuguese and even between the Uruguayans themselves. During the Uruguayan Civil War, ‘Guerra Grande’, the ‘Blancos’, or conservatives, took refuge in the impenetrable enclosure.

Finally, the fortress was abandoned, pillaged and left to the mercy of snakes, spiders and sand.

Uruguayan historian Horacio Arredondo rediscovered and began restoring the nearly buried fortress in 1928. The Santa Teresa National Park is now a rustic beach resort of sorts, although you won’t find fancy hotels, reliable electricity or hot water in most parts. The disorganisation and lack of maintenance is all part of its charm and serves as a built-in crowd control.

Photo By Sanra Ritten

The park is in the Rocha province between the fishing town of Punta del Diablo and the beach of La Coronilla. Its main attraction is its pristine coast. The beaches extend for 15km and are divided by curving shorelines and rock formations.

The Playa Cerro Chato is one of the smaller beaches, somewhat shielded from the fierce winds. This is one of the better beaches for those seeking solitude, or for those who are camping nearby and are too lazy to walk any further. (Choose your campgrounds wisely, the park is expansive and a lot of walking is involved if you want to get from one area to another.) Playa Cerro Chato is also popular with the local fishermen, who lounge all day on the rocks waiting for their catch.

The park’s northernmost beach is its most popular and crowded. Playa de la Mosa, or Waitress’ Beach, reputedly got it’s name because the decapitated body of a waitress washed up on it’s shores in the early 20th century. Now it’s the site of a Brazilian themed bar, the only one within walking distance of Fortaleza Santa Teresa. Hence, it’s the centre of activity. Although you can’t count on the bar to have good food or even water, they do sell the best Uruguayan beer, Pilsen, ice cold which you can enjoy under the shade of the bamboo and leaf umbrellas.

Photo By Sanra Ritten

If you want to hit the waves but couldn’t fit your long board on the Rutas del Sol bus-ride-from-hell, there is a little stand beside the bar where you can rent surfboards and boogie boards. The surf isn’t world-class, but compared to the rest of Uruguay, it’s not too bad. Kite surfing is also very popular at the park’s beaches but for you’ll need to bring your own if you want to partake in the action.

There are several campgrounds in the park, the two most obvious options for the proximity to the beach are La Moza and Cerro Chato. In the summer months La Moza resembles a refugee camp – but with beer and lively music. Uruguayans, Brazilians and Argentines, who all once spilt blood on the same earth, camp side by side in the overcrowded party central camping.

Camping Cerro Chato is less popular and a much better choice for those seeking peace and quiet. It is a little farther from the park’s amenities – the grocery store, pizza place, ice cream parlour and telephone booth – but you will have much more privacy.

The lack of services, like a tourism office, hot water, and electricity for example, are reflected in the prices. The cheapest campgrounds are about 18 Argentine pesos a night for a parcel that can hold up six people. The next option up includes campgrounds with lights and running hot water, in La Moza, which are about 27 Argentine pesos a night. However, this also means you will have to greet packs of Brazilian men every time you poke your head out of the tent first thing in the morning. Which might not be a bad thing.

Photo By Sanra Ritten

If you don’t want to rough it, then the best options are the Cabañas Londrinas. They provide a living/dining room with a wood burning heater, a kitchen complete with a refrigerator, stove, cupboards and, most luxurious of all, hot water. Even if you imagine that you don’t need to bathe in hot water during the sweltering summer months, it will come as a surprise that after the subtropical bouts of torrential rain you will, in fact, want to take a hot shower.

The various cabañas range from $60 to $200 a night during the high season, before the prices drop dramatically from March until December.

While the Fortaleza Santa Teresa is not the easiest place to vacation, considering the distance from Buenos Aires and its lack of a tourism infrastructure, the beautiful beaches and walks through the eucalyptus, pine and palm trees are well worth the trek.

By Lucy Cousins

Uruguay is a country full of contrasts. From the diamond rings and Chandon of Punta del Este, to the dry and dusty estancias and gauchos in the north. It has a capital city that feels empty and acres of countryside that are home to more cattle than people. But to experience the complete contrast of this forgotten country, you need to visit the small colonial town of Carmelo on the south-western coast.

Located along the river only 76km from Colonia, and 236km from Montevideo, Carmelo is a town of 22,000 people but it feels like it is home to about three.

Click to view slide show – Photos by Kate Stanworth

The narrow streets are bordered by rows of small 18th century-style houses, which sag with the weight of history and human neglect. In the evening the shadows of the afternoon sun highlight cracks on broken footpaths, as well as the faded and brittle paint of the creaking buildings. Plants grow unhindered over courtyard walls, dogs sleep on sun-warmed steps and curtains blow in the wind through open windows.

Resting in the street are vintage cars from a time when the city was filled with money and commerce. Dirt and grease have replaced colour on their rounded bonnets.

Photo By: Kate Stanworth

Shops have closed doors, and there are cafes which haven’t changed for decades – complete with the waitresses working in them. The people who live in Carmelo (I like to call them Carmelos) are friendly without being intrusive, interested without being fake.

If you venture just outside of town you will find the kind of contrast you are searching for.

On the outskirts of the city are rows and rows of vineyards, creating geometric illusions on the horizon. The region is known for its quality wines and temperate climate. The grapes grow rich and juicy in the fertile soil and under the vast blue sky.

Just before you reach them you pass an Alcoholics Anonymous, and a giant wine bottle.

On Ruta 21, a main road with no signs or street lighting, you will come across one of South America’s best golf courses. Acres and acres of perfectly manicured lawn, sand traps and lakes; well-dressed men and women aiming for a flag in the distance, and ice-cold white wine served with cheese.

Photo By: Kate Stanworth

Opposite the entrance to the golf course is a road which leads to the cool, shaded oasis of the new Four Seasons resort. Designed in south-east Asian style (for no obvious reason) the resort spreads out along the river. The rooms have verandas overlooking the beautiful clear pool, and the suites look out over the extensive sand dunes. Offering luxurious spa and holistic treatments, the resort is the perfect place to spend an expensive (but ‘vale la pena’) weekend.

If five-star glamour is not your style, the renovated and gentrified Narbona is only 5km down the road. Set in amongst rolling hills, and endless vineyards, Narbona offers both a cosy restaurant which sells its home grown produce as well as two stunning double rooms available for the night.

For those feeling the need to eat cheese with flavour (one thing that Buenos Aires can’t offer) the farm sells cheddar so strong it burns your mouth as well as some of the richest chorizo and sliced meat on offer, and a fantastic range of wines.

Photo By: Kate Stanworth

Two must-haves are the small buckets (literally) of homemade Dulce de Leche, and the honey wine – which is sweet, strong and golden.

The rooms are upstairs in an adjoining historic homestead with a view over the farm, and the afternoon setting sun. Both rooms are fitted out with antique double beds, velvet settees, large golden mirrors and bathrooms complete with deep, ‘sink-into’ bath tubs.

The difference between the silver cutlery and wine glasses on the tables at Narbona, or the glitz of the Four Seasons – and the dusty, deserted streets of Carmelo couldn’t be more prominent as you dine on gourmet food and sip your vintage wine.

Carmelo is a beautiful, fading, historic ghost town from the past – surrounded by the luxuries and extravagances of today. And it is well worth a weekend visit.

Photo By: Kate Stanworth

How to get there:

There are several ways to get to Carmelo:

One way is by boat to Colonia and then either hiring a car, taking a bus or organising a transfer from your hotel. There are two options for the boat– speedy one hour trip which is especially good for the day trips, or the not so speedy three hours but at a fraction of the price. Buquebus, Tel: 4316 6500 or visit www.buquebus.com

Another way by boat is to catch the train to Tigre (departing from Retiro station), and then catch the DeltaCat which arrives directly into Carmelo. Cacciola Viajes y Turismo offer packages including accommodation at either the Casino Hotel in Carmelo or the Four Seasons Hotel. Cacciola Viajes y Turismo Tel: 11 4749 0931 www.cacciolaviajes.com

You can also drive to Carmelo from Buenos Aires as three bridges link the Entre Rios province with Uruguay – Libertador General San Martín (Gualeguaychú-Fray Bentos), General José G Artigas (Colón-Paysandú), and Completjo Salto Grande (Concordia-Salto).

Where to stay:

The historic finca of Narbona: Bodega Y Granja can be found on ruta 21, km 267. To stay overnight in the historical house, call for prices. Tel: (598) 5404 7778 www.fincaygranjanarbona.com

The 5 star Four Seasons Carmelo is located on ruta 21, km 262. Prices start from US$100 per person sharing in a double room with breakfast.
Tel: (598) 542 9000. www.fourseasons.com/carmelo

For a list of budget hotels and camping sites in and around Carmelo check at http://turismodeluruguay.com/espanol/colonia/carmelo.htm

Splurge!

To organise an exclusive tailor-made package departing from Buenos Aires including all transfers by boat and car, accommodation at either the Four Seasons Carmelo, the historic finca of Narbona, or in a local hacienda, contact sebastian@skidelfuego.com

The package can include a luxury spa experience, or if golf is more your passion, it can include all the fees and services of the superb Four Seasons Golf Course

More Info:
www.carmelo.com.uy
www.guiacolonia.com.uy/Carmelo
www.ciudadcarmelo.com