In a continent where Catholicism dominates, it is unsurprising that carnaval is a huge deal in South America.

Traditionally, carnaval is a period for people of the Catholic faith to let their hair down and enjoy the vices they are going to be giving up for the 40 days of Lent. Nowadays the religious roots of carnaval are arguably taking more of a back seat, meaning that carnaval typically extends well into the Lenten period. It is not uncommon for festivities to take place throughout the first three months of each new year.

This can only spell good news for us; while the traditional peak of carnaval remains the weekend before the commencement of Lent, there is still ample opportunity to carry on the celebrations which will continue to sweep across the continent throughout February and March.

[photoxhibit=10]
Click to view slideshow – Photos by Kate Stanworth, Pia Canello, Diogo Dubiela and Marianna Davis

Argentina’s biggest and brightest carnaval takes place in Gualeguaychú, situated in the Entre Rios province 3 hours north of Buenos Aires. Gualeguaychú is a shining example of a city that has adopted the extended carnaval period, this year beginning on 5th January and stretching on until the 1st March.

Carnaval at Gualeguaychú is particularly special, with an energy that is uncontrollable as well as contagious.

The small, greyish city becomes awash with colour and buoyancy as the visitors who descend upon the city overwhelm its 74,000 inhabitants. Led by the comparsas, these large groups of performers will parade through Gualeguaychú every Saturday from 10.30pm until early in the morning. Gifted dancers in elaborate and ostentatious drapery are followed through the streets by equally flamboyantly-clad musicians, belting out samba and Batucada beats from magnificently adorned floats. Batacuda, a substyle of samba, is an African-influenced Brazilian percussive style, characterised by its fast pace and repetitive style. Racy and evocative dancing is in the script, so be prepared for a good flirt!

Photo By: Diogo Dubiela

The fact that these comprasas are in competition with each other guarantees a performance set to enthuse, uplift and liberate dazzled revellers. Each weekend, their costumes, floats, music, dance and level of spectacle are scrutinised by a panel of judges, and a winner declared.

For a comprehensive guide to the carnaval, including information regarding entrance prices and travel options, visit the official website, www.carnavaldelpais.com.ar .

Entre Ríos’ tourist board’s website also provides useful supplementary information, and can be found at www.entrerios.gov.ar/turismo/ .

Where Else in Argentina?

Many of the towns in Argentina’s north-western province Jujuy offer an extensive carnaval programme throughout February.

The province’s biggest carnaval celebrations are held between 17th and 25th February. For the first three days, participants of carnaval will follow the all-singing, all-dancing comparsas around a number of towns in the province, in a ceremony known as ‘desentierro del carnaval’ (the exhumation of the carnaval). The party will continue until 25th February, when during the last two days, known as ‘Carnaval Chico’, the ceremony of ‘the burial’ of carnaval is held.

In addition to the celebrations in Humahuaca, shows, conferences, exhibitions and artisan fairs are held throughout the month. Local delicacies are particularly important in Jujuy, so great food is always on offer!

Photo By: Marianna Davis

Carnaval Around the Continent

Rio de Janeiro, Brazil – Carnaval Capital

Rio de Janeiro is widely regarded as the carnaval capital, and attracts well over half a million visitors from around the globe each year.

For Brazilians, Rio is as much about educating people about the culture of their diverse country, as it is about euphoria, dance and celebration.

Every February, carnaval consumes the city, with parties descending upon every street, square and bar across the city.

People from Rio’s favelas, are one of the most involved groups in the celebrations. They view the period as a time to forget about their daily hardships and have as much fun as possible. Carnaval in Rio is described as “something that comes deep from the fun-loving soul of the Rio people, and a demonstration of life, and of passion.”

Photo By: Diogo Dubiela

Involved in Salvador de Bahia, Brazil

Salavdor is billed as the world’s greatest street carnaval, and it contains a level of crowd participation that Rio is sometimes accused of lacking.

A massive two million people join the city’s street celebrations every year, partying along to the samba reggae music, which infamously accompanies the celebrations.

The Salvador carnaval is perhaps best known for the ‘TrioEléctrico’, a concept which has been adopted by numerous carnavals throughout Brazil: A specially-adapted lorry tours the city, providing the stage for musicians to blast out local genres from the huge speakers on board – the crowd follows, singing and dancing in its trail.

Up ’n’ Coming – Oruro, Bolivia

While the carnavals in Brazil may be the most famous in the world, they are not necessarily superior. ‘La Diablada’ carnaval in the western Bolivian city of Oruro is currently enjoying yet another successful carnaval season, reaffirming its status as one of the most vivacious carnavals emerging in the world today.

The religious-pagan syncretism is one of the most notable themes of carnaval in Oruro, with people dressed as angels juxtaposed with devils and demons. A true sense of Bolivian folklore is very much alive, and is presented by Bolivians themselves, who unite regardless of their age, social class and political persuasion

Visiting relatives in Porto Alegre, in the deep deep south of Brazil, I decided on a whim to stop by a city that everyone had told me about, yet of which I knew nothing: Florianópolis.

[photoxhibit=11]Click to view slide show – Photos by Sam Katterfield

Arriving alone and under cover of night at the bus station (which is never the nicest place in Brazil to be), I began to think I had committed a grave error. Little did I know that in Florianópolis (or Floripa as it’s affectionately known by locals) I would find some of the nicest scenery, best beaches and friendliest company in all of Brazil.

Beaches

Situated on an island, the city of Florianópolis gives the visitor spectacular seaside possibilities in a small area, providing something for all tastes. The signs written in Spanish are a nod to the fact that beaches such as Canasvieras and Praia dos Ingleses are very popular with Argentine and Uruguayan tourists in the summer. Along with fellow northern beaches such as Jurerê, Praia Brava and Daniela, this part of the island is the most developed, with plenty of hotels, restaurants and other amenities for the discerning tourist.

Photo By: Sam Katterfield

Some of the best surfing in all of Brazil is to be found on the eastern beaches of Campeche, Mole and Moçambique. Florianópolis is blessed with some of the finest and most consistent waves in the country and for the past four years the city has been host to what is currently the only South American stop on the ASP (Association of Surfing Professionals) World Tour.

Further south, Armação and Morro das Pedras beaches are less crowded and developed; providing a respite from the beach vendors selling hammocks, porn and sun-block. I took the time to confess my past and future sins at Sant’Anna church on Armação; historically where local whale harpooners and fishermen would attend mass before setting sail. However if you really want to get away from it all, try the southern coast beaches of Lagoinha do Leste or Naufragados. These isolated, unspoilt spots can only be accessed by footpath.

Getting Around

Despite being a relatively small island, it can take a substantial amount of time to get around. For example, to get from Armação in the south to Praia dos Ingleses in the north took three buses and most of the afternoon. Despite this, or maybe because of it, in Florianópolis you’ll see something you won’t see in the rest of Brazil: people queuing for transport!

Photo By: Laura Trythall

If there are enough of you in your group and your funds can provide, it’s worth renting a car. Otherwise, you have two choices: stay in the centre of city, a little way from the beaches, and retain the ability to visit a different one everyday (from the centre you can catch the yellow ‘executive’ buses directly to the popular points on the island for R$4.50). If not, choose to stay right on your preferred beach and content yourself to not move too far.

Food, Drink and Culture

Florianópolis was initially populated by immigrants from the Portuguese archipelago of the Açores. Today the influence of the Açores is most keenly felt by the tourist in the comida açoriana that dominates the local cuisine. A city on the sea that was built by whalers and fishermen is clearly going to feast on seafood, and one item of gastronomy that is unique to Florianópolis is Seqüência de Camarão. The traditional Seqüência is more of a set meal of several courses for two people, so invite that nice local you met on the beach. Depending on the restaurant you’ll receive shrimp prepared in various ways, crab, grilled fish and possibly oysters or shellfish. It’s served with pirão as an accompaniment; an bland fish sauce that oddly works well with seafood.

The more recent arrival of large numbers of Italian and German immigrants has had a noticeable influence on the area, as seen in the high quality Italian restaurants to be found on the north of the island. In terms of nightlife, Lagoa da Conceição is the place to start, as it’s bars and clubs are open year round. Those warm bar-hopping Brazilians are always up for a chat, and are impressed to meet a foreigner who can speak even a couple of words of Portuguese. Consult the website listed at the end to find out the latest on what’s happening in Florianópolis.

Photo By: Sam Katterfield

All in all, Florianópolis is more of a trek than Mar del Plata and Pinamar, with taking a flight a necessity, but such beautiful scenery, beautiful people and a wide range of beach possibilities in such a small area make the trip vastly worthwhile.

Further Information:

bar do Arante, Florianópolis (BrazilTravelBlog)
www.mapia.com.br/florianopolis
www.guiafloripa.com.br