Rays from the setting sun spill through the cracked windowpane of an open garage. The tiny dust particles catch in the soft light, swirling ethereally around cars used in the time of our great grandfathers. Phonographs, paraffin lanterns, antique water pitchers, wooden wheel barrels, time appears to have stopped long ago. However, its 2008 and one of Uruguay’s oldest estancias near the town of Carmelo is in its sixth year running as a refurbished luxury bed and breakfast.

The estate dates back to 1732 when an esteemed Spanish architect built the nearby Narbona chapel. In the early 1900s Italian immigrants moved in, bringing with them vines transported from the best terroirs in Europe and the tradition of making delicious cheeses. In 2002, owner and developer Pacha Canton had the vision to refurbish and bring back to life the historic estancia. He found some of the best interior designers, staff, and cheese and wine makers, to emulate the life and flavours of the early 1900s.

Photo by: Sanra Ritten

The rooms adornment of crystal chandeliers, plush white cushions, and simple elegance borrowed from another time is important but it’s the spectacular food that sets the place apart from just another up-scale boutique hotel. Behind the scenes of the relaxing, elegant bed and breakfast, there are people artfully making fresh pastas, artesian cheeses and Tannat. The gastronomy of Narbona is what makes the place so interesting, the history and work behind each delicious morsel and drop of wine.

The view from the two guest rooms overlooks Narbona’s greatest asset: the vineyards. Nine hectares of the emblematic Uruguayan grape, Tannat, stretch out over the rolling hills into the horizon. While Narbona does produce a Viognier and Pinto Noir, its Tannat is arguably the best.

Photo by: Sanra Ritten

Carmelo is one of Uruguay’s biggest wine producing regions and its wines have special characteristics due to it’s unique geographic location. It is located just two kilometres from Punta Gorda, where the Río de Uruguay ends and the Río de la Plata begins. The temperature of the Río de la Plata at this latitude is significantly warmer than anywhere else due to the proximity of the Río Paraná estuary, which brings warm water from the centre of South America.

While Tannat grapes are picked in the middle of March in other parts of Uruguay, they are not picked until the end of the month in Carmelo due to the warmer river temperatures. These extra 15 days allow the fruits to further mature, thus producing wines of higher quality.

Other factors of course play a part in distinguishing the Tannat from Narbona to those of others, from the calcite rich soils to the deeply rooted tradition of hand picking the grapes.

Photo by: Sanra Ritten

Uruguay, the small country that it is, is actually the world’s largest producer of the grape. Originally from the south-western part of France, it grows well in South American soil. Even though it best pairs with Uruguay’s favourite food, beef, Narbona’s infamous parmesan cheese can hold its own against the rather tannic, deeply coloured red wine.

Jorge Jaen, the master cheesemaker, has been working at Narbona since its conception and before then he made cheese with his Uncle for 20 years. Each day, about 3,000 litres of milk are taken from the 100 cows on the property and made into fine quality mozzarella, colonia and parmesan cheese.

Photo by: Sanra Ritten

The parmesan cheese from Narbona is special and has a unique flavour because unlike most, it is guarded in the cooling rooms for four years. Technically parmesan cheese can be stored for just 10-12 months and even most other high quality parmesan cheeses in Argentina are only stored for two years. The extra time sitting on a shelf in a temperature-controlled room intensifies the hard Italian cheese’s pungent flavour and flaky texture.

For those interested Jaen, or his apprentice, will give tours of the tambo. One can see the hoses that pump the milk fresh from the cows, the sterilised rooms where the fermentations are added to make the different cheeses and the salt baths where the cheeses bob around for days on end. The tour ends with a tasting in the storage rooms where the smell from the rounds and rounds of maturing queso is so intense it’s almost intoxicating.

Photo by: Sanra Ritten

Back in the restaurant’s kitchen, the chefs pair the cheeses with their culinary soulmate: fresh pastas. Egg fettuccines, ham and ricotta stuffed sorrentinos or spinach and cheese canelones, nothing is more delicious than hearty servings of homemade pasta with freshly grated parmesan cheese fit for an Italian king.

The menu at the restaurant is simple – pasta dishes, platters of meats and cheeses or salads straight from the organic garden – yet decadent: very much in tune with the rest of Narbona. It is a place to relax and enjoy the simple things in life of the very highest quality.

Photo by: Sanra Ritten

Narbona could have been the country house of an aristocratic family of South America in the early 20th century. So be warned, don’t go there with a peasants (ie backpackers) change purse. For more information or to make reservations check out www.fincanarbona.com .

Following up on complaints from neighbors, police began a stakeout of Juan Jantum’s house. A steady stream of people coming and going from the house made the decision to investigate an easy one. Juan Jantum’s house was obviously being used to distribute drugs.

Coastal city Mar del Plata is a top vacation spot for Argentines.

At 1:50 am on March 4th, police witnessed a woman arrive by taxi, enter the house and exit a few minutes later. They apprehended her as she walked out, the two doses of acid in her purse causing the expected arrest. It was, however, a shock to find out that the person in custody was in fact a man named Sergio. Despite being caught red-handed, there are no arrest records for Sergio, probably owing as much to her baritone protestations of innocence as to what happened next.

Entering the house, the police quickly found more than enough evidence to make an arrest. Scattered about the house and largely prepped for distribution, were more than 4 kilos of marijuana and 600 grams of cocaine. Jantum (45, aka “Ruben Castro”, aka “Piti”, aka ‘Pepe”) was indignant at losing his wares and being hauled off to jail. Accusing the police of kidnapping his drugs, he shouted, “I have judicial protection!”

Cops uncovered a major corruption
scandal in Mar del Plata, Argentina

Confounded, the police wondered exactly just what he meant. As Jantum happily explained, he was legally allowed to sell the drugs because they were “taken from the evidence vault of the Federal Court.”

After being assured that there is no such thing as “judicial protection” for dealing drugs, Jantum quickly implicated everybody in his operation. Beginning with Jose “Chico” Tarantino, a local mechanic who delivered the drugs, on up to the Court Clerks and Guards who stole the drugs and finally to the Federal Judge who adjusted the evidence records to show that the drugs were never there.

Sensing they were on the verge of breaking a major public corruption case, the police moved quickly and quietly. Paperwork for their arrest was held to keep it out of the public record and avoid raising Judge Roberto Falcone’s suspicions. Turns out they needn’t have been so cagey.

Falcone was already raising eyebrows around the court house, having in the same week brazenly pocketed $400 in walking around money from the evidence vault. A quick review of records showed that Falcone was not even trying to hide his tracks, recently adjusting 20 kilos of marijuana from the evidence reports with no explanation provided.

The court clerk, Facundo Capparelli, had noticed the discrepancies and when confronted by police admitted to knowing of the thefts. Asked as to why he hadn’t felt the need to file a report he shrugged his shoulders and replied, “Report what? We’re going to burn everything.”

Sure enough that same day Capparelli signed an order to incinerate all of the drugs stored in the vault, thus destroying all evidence of the crimes. Public Prosecutor Adrian Peres was able to secure a court injunction preventing the burning and allowing an inspection of the vault. Peres discovered massive amounts of contraband were missing:

Court proceedings start this week in Mar del Plata.

64 kilos of Marijuana and 8 plants,
11.5 kilos of Cocaine,
49 doses of LSD,
239 tablets of Ecstasy,
12 doses of PCP and,
2 Hallucinogenic Mushrooms.

Later chemical tests confirmed that the drugs found in Jantum’s house were in fact from the federal evidence vault.

Court proceedings open this week in the cases against Capparelli, Jantum and Tarantino. No word on whether or not “Sergio” will be making an appearance to recount her tale of the fateful evening.

Honorable Roberto Falcone is still sitting on the federal judiciary, as no charges have been brought against him. He is also serving on a Congressional Advisory Committee on Issues surrounding the Repression of Drug Traffickers and Complex Criminality.

Related

Juicio a dos secretarios y un policía por el robo de droga de un tribunal (Clarin)

Drogas en Mar del Plata, episodio II. Jueces, policías y una historia de novela (El Ojo Digital)

Intercambiando

Over 300 people have filed a $15 million lawsuit against farm owners, as well as the provincial and national governments for the damage caused by the fires and the smoke.

UPDATE 4/20 10:07 : It appears meteorologists are about as accurate here as back in the U.S. Changing wind patterns have given Buenos Aires residents a relief from the smoke and a breath of fresh air. The winds are expected to turn back and take a southernly direction by this afternoon, returning the smoke to the city.

The smoke that has blanketed Buenos Aires for the past week will continue through at least Wednesday, Servicio Meteorologico Nacional warned today. On Wednesday the wind patterns will provide a respite from the smoke choking the city, however the relief will be minor and short lived.

For city residents the negative health affects of living downwind from a 173,000-acre grass fire are starting to take hold. Over 400 people have been admitted to hospitals for smoke related ailments, prompting the Ministry of Health to declare a yellow alert for hospitals, ophthalmologists and pediatricians. Authorities in La Plata have recommended people not leave their homes unless absolutely necessary.

Smoke clogs the streets and obscures the view of the Obelisco in Buenos Aires

Carbon monoxide levels have been steadily rising in Buenos Aires, with levels as high as 17 ppm detected. Symptoms of carbon monoxide exposure include headaches, dizziness and nausea, which worsen with long-term contact. Prolonged exposure to fresh air is required for carbon monoxide to clear from the bloodstream, something that is currently in short supply in the Buenos Aires area.

Adding to the misery of residents in Capital Federal, transportation cuts are still in effect. Highways Ruta 9, 12 and 14 are closed, all departures from Retiro bus station are cancelled and Aeroparque Jorge Newberry has been closed because due to poor visibility. All flights have been diverted to Ezeiza, however visibility problems there have led to numerous cancellations and delays. Supte lines A, B and D are closed and C is running with lengthy delays.

Officials confirmed in a press conference today, that new fires have been detected along Ruta 12. Police officials said they spotted “two people on horseback setting fires, and in another area a tractor with a trailer on fire – which is the typical method employed for burning pastures.”

The fight against the fires in the Parana Delta is proving to be strikingly ineffective. Over 297 separate fires are currently burning and there are only 300 firefighters in the area to combat the blazes. Another 300 firefighters are being held in reserve and will rotate in to relieve those on the front lines. With such a glaring lack of manpower, the government is admitting that it cannot stop the blazes. The Secretary of the Environment, Ramina Picolotti, conceded that “humans can not put [the fires] out, we can only help nature.”

Interior Minister Florencio Randazzo confirmed today that two people are in custody in connection with starting the fires and a third is being searched for. Additionally the government has leveled charges against 200 farm owners for their liability in starting the fires.

“This is not a forest fire, it’s the burning of grasslands for greed and personal gain which has caused enormous risk to the population and enormous expense to the state. It’s unacceptable,” Picolotti stated in a press conference today. However the government has taken care to say their charges against the 200 farm owners have nothing to do with the ongoing negations to resolve the campo crisis.

The agricultural sector has responded angrily to the charges. Vice President of the Rural Society, Hugo Biolcati argued that "it is extremely unfair and unwise to hold an entire sector responsible, such as farmers, for the actions of individuals." Today in an escalation of rhetoric, the farmers unions threatened to restart the strikes that crippled Argentina’s highway system and blocked food delivery to Buenos Aires for three weeks.

RELATED:

- State of Emergency: Highways to BsAs Closed

- Government Blames Farmers For the Delta Blaze

- BsAs Darkened By Smoke From Delta Grass Fires

- No Respite From Smoke Until Wednesday

- Government Blames Farmers For the Delta Blaze

- BsAs Darkened By Smoke From Delta Grass Fires

UPDATE 4/23 7:42 The dense cloud of smoke has returned to Buenos Aires, bringing with it a familiar smell and the expected round of transportation cuts. Visibility has dropped to 400m in the city and large sections of Rutas 9, 12 and 14 are all closed. Retiro bus station has stopped service to the northern part of Argentina as well as Brazil and Uruguay.

UPDATE 4/18 17:42 The Servicio Meteorológico Nacional (SMN) is stating that winds from the north will continue through next Tuesday, bringing a steady stream of smoke into Buenos Aires. SMN additionally warns that the smoke will be especially bad this evening, resulting in "zero visibility in the city."

UPDATE 4/18 17:26 The Government has filed formal charges against 200 farm owners for the Parana Delta wildfire. In an attempt to distance the charges from the ongoing campo negotiations, Interior Minister Florencio Randazzo appeared on Radio 10 and stated that the charges have "nothing to do with the discussions with the agricultural sector."

With grass fires in the Delta still raging out of control, the smoke in the Capital is becoming increasingly intense. The poor visibility has forced the government to declare an emergency and close many of the main entrances to Capital Federal. The Panamericana between Campana and Pilar, autopista La Plata-Buenos Aires from Hudson to the Capital, and Rutas 9 and 12 are all closed to road traffic.

Additionally, Retiro station has suspended bus departures indefinitely and the Aeroparque Metropolitano is only operational for departures. Supte line C is closed and all other lines are operating with significant delays.

NASA Image showing the fire locations – outlined in red. The fire has spread to over 270 sq-miles.

According to Ernesto Arriaga, a spokesperson for the Direccion de Vialidad Nacional, there are locations where visibility on the autopistas drops to as low as 5 meters. On the highway connecting Ezeiza airport and Capital visibility never exceeds 200 meters.

The Servicio Meteorologica Nacional (SMN) is reporting that because of an "unusual phenomenon" the smoke will continue to hang over Buenos Aires for the foreseeable future. Winds from the North are transporting smoke from the Delta fires into the city and according to the SMN, "if the fires continue to be active, the smoke will persist."

The Secretary of the Environment, Romina Picolotti, has acknowledged that so long as the fire in the Delta continues, the dense smoke covering the city will continue. Picolotti has also said that the government is unable to stop the blaze, and is currently only working on containing the fire which has spread into Entre Rios. In statements to Radio Americano, Picolotti said that the fire will only be brought under control "if nature helps us."

Smoke blanketing the city of Buenos Aires.

Related:

Por la acción de los vientos, el humo se quedará varios días (Clarin)

Cerraron los principales accesos a la Capital Federal (Clarin)

El humo se incrementa y complica los accesos a Capital; emergencia vial (La Nacion)

Smoke on the Water…. and in the Sky Over Buenos Aires (A Texan in Argentina – Personal Blog)

UPDATE 4/18 17:42 The Servicio Meteorológico Nacional (SMN) is stating that winds from the north will continue through next Tuesday, bringing a steady stream of smoke into Buenos Aires. SMN additionally warns that the smoke will be especially bad this evening, resulting in “zero visibility in the city.”

UPDATE 4/18 17:26 The Government has filed formal charges against 200 farm owners for the Parana Delta wildfire. In an attempt to distance the charges from the ongoing campo negotiations, Interior Minister Florencio Randazzo appeared on Radio 10 and stated that the charges have “nothing to do with the discussions with the agricultural sector.”

Following tense negotiations with agricultural groups over the campo crisis, the Kirchner administration placed blame for the Delta fires squarely on the farming sector.

Buenos Aires as seen from the Rio Plata today.

“There is no doubt…those responsible are farmers who are showing a great disinterest in the community, an inconceivable irrationality and enormous irresponsibility. They are not measuring the consequences, just maximizing their profits ” proclaimed Interior Minister Florencio Randazzo, speaking from the Casa Rosada.

The attacks against the agricultural sector closely follow the tact taken during the height of the strike, two weeks ago. At the time President Christina Fernandez de Kirchner accused the farmers of extorting the government. Additionally she painted the farmers as greedy and selfish with statements such as “When the cows become fat it is for them and the hardships are for everyone else.”

The Vice President of the Rural Society, Hugo Luis Biolcati quickly responded to Randazzo’s charges, asserting that the government is trying to take advantage of the disaster and affect the ongoing negotiations.

Palermo, Buenos Aires under a cloud of smoke.

“It is extremely unfair and unwise to hold an entire sector responsible, such as farmers, for the actions of individuals,” argued Biolcati. The Vice President of the Agrarian Federation, Ulises Forte openly questioned the Interior Ministers motivations, saying “I think there is a clear policy intent of the Government to distract from the heart of the debate and to distract the public with the disaster. What is happening is very serious. But much more serious is the political infantilism, you can not blame the farmers. “

The agricultural sector has recently been accusing the government, and specifically Randazzo, with resorting to pressure tactics. With the negotiations between the government and the agricultural sector stalling, both sides are looking for maneuvering room to bring about a favorable resolution.

Randazzo admits that they don’t know who started the fires, but insists that they “are conducting investigations to find those responsible.”

To date, no one has been charged with starting the fires.

Parana Delta fires as seen from the air.

Related

La Presidenta también vinculó al humo con la actividad agraria y habló de irresponsabilidad (Clarin)

La quema de pastizales se coló en el conflicto con el campo (La Nacion)