Te quiero Barilo-ché
By Sam Walker
If you’re feeling restless in the city, and are looking for a cheeky week away from ‘Malas Aires’, or maybe an alternative investment opportunity in Argentina, why not try the Lake District?
Ladies and Gentleman, I present: Bariloche.

Photo by Joshua Segal
As Jason Donovan famously crooned, ‘I’ll give you ten good reasons…’
Ten reasons
1. Bariloche (formerly San Carlos de Bariloche) is tucked into the foothills of the Andes, right next to the Chilean border, 460km from the larger Neuquén, and a little north of El Bolsón and Chubut Province. It is the nearest urban centre to the Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi, one of Argentina’s best outdoor recreation areas. It is also perched on one side of Lake Nahuel Huapí. These details may not be much use to you though; suffice to say, Bariloche is stunningly beautiful and so, so clean. Four days there and felt young again – I could breathe again! Point 1: beautiful, sublime, mind-blowing.
2. The town itself is nice. There are lines of touristy shops selling ski gear, trekking equipment and fur coats, but all for the good as it can get quite chilly, and no-one wants to go exploring unprepared. Bariloche is also famed for its chocolate and artisan beer, so when you come back from your adventures you can relax to the max. Don’t miss the St Bernard’s rescue dogs in the main square too.
3. Bariloche is famed for its quaint alpine architecture; it’s like a little slice of Switzerland. Local Patagonian hardwoods and some unusual stonework give the buildings a unique charm. There are plenty of opportunities for investment, from the highly popular refugios, (the isolated hideaway cabins), to the thriving restaurant scene, backpacker hostels, and town houses.
4. The Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi is highly popular for trekking. The Club Andino Bariloche provides the necessary permits, and suggests a smorgasbord of routes into and out of Bariloche, and in the surrounding countryside. Climbing is also extremely popular and is a good way to reach the best views.

Photo by Joshua Segal
5. Horse riding. The king of day trips. Imagine the scene: you, with a wide-brimmed hat and a sneer that could kill, your trusty steed and the enormous view reaching as far as your squinting eye can see. Tours are usually run by private estancias (ranches) a little outside of the main town, but will usually put on an asado so you can fill up on meat before heading back out for the afternoon ride. Perfect!
6. Water sports are massive in Bariloche. The Río Limay and Río Mansay provide some excellent white water rafting, whilst sailing and kayaking are available all over. And if you’re still looking for water sports, there’s scuba diving and canon diving available too!
7. To cover a little more distance and see the surrounding parts, I recommend either renting a bike or a car. For biking, the Circuito Chico weaves through pine forest and the tranquil lakeside, and offers unrivalled views of the whole area. If you’re feeling adventurous, you can spend a week crossing the Andes.
For driving, two favourites are either the one-day ‘7 lakes tour’, which encompasses the seven, beautiful lakes dotted conveniently outside Bariloche; or a day-trip up to the Glacier Negro (Black Glacier) which is a little quieter, but a bit bumpy! Prices for rental are very reasonable (approx $80/day) and the roads are quite safe.

Photo by Joshua Segal
8. If you like to hunt, Bariloche is open to you. Fly fishing on the lake dominates the fishing front, and there are plenty of people available to show you how to do it if, like me, you’re casting action has become a bit rusty. Otherwise, there are shooting parties which hunt stag; almost all are based in the estancias so expect another asado!
9. In winter, Bariloche becomes Argentina’s number one skiing destination, at the beautiful resort of Catedral Alta Patagonia on the enormous Cerro Catedral. Famed mostly for its breathtaking views and good off-piste (the en-piste snow is less good), the resort is very popular amongst Argentines. The season runs from June to October.
10. One myth which I would like to dispel is the nagging doubts about the weather. In summer (October to February), the mountains and lakes are your proverbial oyster. In winter, the snowfall is enough to test even the best skier amongst you. But! Let us not forget, possibly the most beautiful time of year is right about now! In autumn the landscape is alive with colour, and the bright-sun-and-crisp-air combination makes your daytime activities all the more enjoyable. Bariloche is open all year!
So all in all, a good place to be. Bariloche functions as a good base from which you can conduct your wild, action-packed nature-tours of Patagonia/The Lake District. And when you’re not skiing, kayaking, biking, scuba diving, climbing, trekking, horse riding, white water rafting, sailing, or just plain gawping at the view, you can entertain yourself adequately in the serene resort-town of Bariloche.





















