By Laura Trythall

Thirty kilometers east of Punta del Este, the tiny hideaway of José Ignacio nestles in the sand dunes along the Atlantic coast of Uruguay. Its sole landmark, a lighthouse on the point jutting out into the sea.

A coastal resort now favoured by those for whom Punta del Este has lost its allure and exclusivity, José Ignacio is overrun by the beautiful people from December to February: the author Martin Amis and the singer Shakira are said to have homes here, while stars of the fashion world Gisele Bündchen, Naomi Cambpell and Mario Testino have all frequented these Uruguayan shores.

Photo by Laura Trythall

Having experienced the beauty of José Ignacio over New Year, I was keen to return under less hectic circumstances and enjoy all that the fishing village had to offer.

During the holiday period the beach is packed, restaurant bookings impossible and the streets buzz with life into the early hours. However arriving in José Ignacio at the end of February I find a lonesome town under a greying cloudy sky. The few remaining stragglers from the end of year holidays wander the little streets, a little bemused but happy to be able to enter shops, galleries and restaurants without the crowds of a weeks or two before. Boutique owners have swapped racks of bikinis for stands of knitted wraps and seem pleased to be profiting from the darkening skies and drop in temperature.

Photo by Laura Trythall

It’s not beach weather, but all roads in José Ignacio lead to the shore. Despite the bite to the air a few brave souls can be spotted defying the elements. The sun-lounges may be unoccupied, but the grey surf is littered with kite-surfers who have reclaimed their stage to dance to and fro on the waves.

I find it reminiscent of parts of the rugged British coastline – wide beaches fringed by the rough seas and sea grassed dunes. To many US visitors it is ‘The Hamptons’ of Latin America. Prettier and quieter than Punta del Este or its neighbouring villages, José Ignacio has attracted more and more of the summer crowd each year.

Inlets along the coast have formed saltwater gullies and lakes, where water-sports schools have sprouted, taking advantage of the shallow water and relative safety from the open sea. The further east one travels the less populated it becomes, giving way to eucalyptus groves and fenced-off tracts of land. Gradually the activity of kite-surfers on the horizon is pushed aside by grazing herds of cattle, resting peacefully under the trees with their new calves. The only other link to civilization is the occasional gaucho with his dogs as companions.

Photo by Laura Trythall

Only 20 minutes outside of José Ignacio, Laguna de Garzon swallows the road and three industrious men with a chain ferry provide the only travel to the other side. Two of them guide the cars and passengers on and off the ferry whilst the third operates a small powered boat that pulls the ferry across. Next to the ferry is half a bridge, an ugly concrete construction abandoned in mid-flight at some point in the past in favour of the tried and tested.

Continuing eastward sends you bouncing along a red dirt road until the much larger Laguna de Rocha with its surrounding Nature Reserve. This route is best left for 4×4s. The rough terrain will quickly make you regret your decision should you attempt the passage in a lesser vehicle.

Photo by Laura Trythall

Life in José Ignacio doesn’t come cheap. The only option is to stay in one of the few and exclusive posadas or rent a house to yourself. The restaurants are wonderful and wonderfully self aware of their stature. La Huella, as famous as José Ignacio itself, is a fantastic place to grab a snack, sample a cocktail or simply gorge yourself to bursting point. But it’s the restaurant Marismo that really steals the show. Tucked away up a small sandy path and with no noticeable sign from the main road, you have to know about this place before you go. If you’re one of the few that does it’s a real privilege. With an al fresco motif, driftwood furniture is set around a blazing fire on the sand. Sink your feet into the beach while munching on some of the finest food the region has to offer – from four hour-braised Patagonian lamb to the freshest seafood.

Photo by Laura Trythall

To visit José Ignacio out of season is the best way to do it. The place is a haven for peace and quiet – something that is lost amidst the mad summer months.