By Laura Trythall

My parents had already been in Buenos Aires for a week and the time had not gone as well as any of us had hoped. My ‘new porteño lifestyle’ had clashed with my parents’ (somewhat misplaced) expectations for their middle child.

After seven days of sleeping through my alarm and keeping my parents waiting, I had some way to go in climbing out of their bad books. Having listened to the oohs and aahs of people who had been, I looked to the Lake District for help. The weather forecast showed a lovely round full sun logo and 29 C in Bariloche, my parents agreed tentatively and that was that.

Photo By: Laura Trythall

A little concerned to hear the Aerolineas cabin crew inform us that the temperature on the ground was 4°C as I sat in flip-flops and t-shirt, I contemplated a potentially disastrous second week. Thankfully when we landed the sky was clear, the sun was shining and the temperature had soared to the high 20s. My parents were already starting to smile.

Though I had been zealously recommended the Lake District by many, few advised the journey along the dust road through the seven lakes. A popular option is to find your spot and to base yourself aside a single lake. After all, once you’ve seen one, you’ve seen them all right? Wrong. The charm and outstanding beauty of the route defies description. I persuaded my parents to rent a car to take full advantage of the Ruta de los Siete Lagos; therein lay my triumph.

Photo By: Laura Trythall

Nothing can fully prepare you for the sheer beauty of the National Park. ‘Breathtaking’ is a somewhat overused word, but the vistas truly did take our breath away as we steered our trusty Corsa from Bariloche onto the A231 towards Villa la Angostura and caught our first view of Lake Nahuel Huapi.

Over the next three days we would see more natural beauty than some see in a lifetime. We drove along the north shore of Lake Nahuel Huapi, marvelling at the cobalt blue water and the sheer immensity of the sky reflected in its glassy surface.

Photo By: Laura Trythall

The 150km stretch from Bariloche to San Martín de los Andes should only be a 4 to 5 hour drive – though, given the neck-turning views, this would prove impossible. The Seven Lakes drive begins from a fork off the main Ruta 231 a few miles beyond Villa la Angostura. You come across a road sign saying simply ‘Chile’ to the left, and Ruta 234 (the Ruta Siete Lagos) to your right. Here you begin your journey along the stone and dirt road, which will become your guide for most of the trip. Turn on dipped lights and take it slowly, having made sure your screen washer and petrol are topped up before you set off.

The route runs from here to San Martín de los Andes, a chic little Patagonian town, taking in seven spectacular lakes along the way: Nahuel Huapi, Espejo, Correntoso, Escondido, Villarino, Falkner and Machónico. Each twist of the road brings you new scenery, from towering peaks to forested hills and each lake is remarkably different, from their colour to their texture. Some lakes’ sandy banks lead down to icy indigo waters while others sparkle turquoise and are fringed by pebble shores.
Guardaparques (National Park officers) lodges and campsites are scattered along the route, all in prime locations. The only other manmade landmarks are the occasional hostels and cafés as well as the miradors (look-out points). The area remains remarkably unspoilt, considering the world-renowned reputation of the place.

Photo By: Laura Trythall

A not to be missed highlight is a sunset boat trip. Only from the water can you truly appreciate the scale and depth of the environment, quite literally. From the clear shallow waters that lap the shores the depth of the lake quickly drops to icy depths of over fifty metres. Our captain pointed out a bright green plant to us that grows all along the steep rock face bordering one side of the lake. He explained that it is a type of algae that can only grow in a zero pollution environment. I cast a thought to Buenos Aires and the stark contrast between the capital and here, a place with the cleanest water and air you could hope for.

All the usual activities abound from horse riding to hiking, kayaking to rafting, and of course fishing and sailing. In winter skiing takes over, but the lakes continue to look magnificent with the bordering mountains shrouded in snow. As with most Latin American tourist hotspots, the rewards are magnified by visiting out of season. While the weather is at its best during the peak summer months, the climate is just as pleasant before or after. The fresh green of spring or the autumnal gold often contribute to spectacular scenery.

Photo By: Laura Trythall

Weeks later, I am still dreaming about the seven lakes. Turquoise brooks, icy mirrored expanses, and creamy Bariloche chocolate fill my thoughts. Needless to say my parents now love me again, but not as much as they love the lakes.

Tips

• Make sure you have lots of film or space on your memory card space as well as fully charged battery. I defy anyone to leave without hundreds of mirrored ‘which-way-is-up’ photos.
• Before you set off ensure your car is filled up – with petrol, windscreen washer and bottled water.
• If you can, rent a car. It affords you the freedom to roam at your leisure and explore some of the nooks and crannies around the lakes. A 4×4 would be heaven if you can stretch to one.
• Head off the beaten track to Lago Traful. It’s isolation and grandeur are unmatched as is the awe-inspiring view from the Mirador – the best vista in the region.
• Go now, before the dust road turns to tarmac and the tiny fishermen on the horizon are replaced with the lights from bars.

Photo By: Laura Trythall