By Lucy Cousins

Uruguay is a country full of contrasts. From the diamond rings and Chandon of Punta del Este, to the dry and dusty estancias and gauchos in the north. It has a capital city that feels empty and acres of countryside that are home to more cattle than people. But to experience the complete contrast of this forgotten country, you need to visit the small colonial town of Carmelo on the south-western coast.

Located along the river only 76km from Colonia, and 236km from Montevideo, Carmelo is a town of 22,000 people but it feels like it is home to about three.

The narrow streets are bordered by rows of small 18th century-style houses, which sag with the weight of history and human neglect. In the evening the shadows of the afternoon sun highlight cracks on broken footpaths, as well as the faded and brittle paint of the creaking buildings. Plants grow unhindered over courtyard walls, dogs sleep on sun-warmed steps and curtains blow in the wind through open windows.

Resting in the street are vintage cars from a time when the city was filled with money and commerce. Dirt and grease have replaced colour on their rounded bonnets.

Photo By: Kate Stanworth

Shops have closed doors, and there are cafes which haven’t changed for decades – complete with the waitresses working in them. The people who live in Carmelo (I like to call them Carmelos) are friendly without being intrusive, interested without being fake.

If you venture just outside of town you will find the kind of contrast you are searching for.

On the outskirts of the city are rows and rows of vineyards, creating geometric illusions on the horizon. The region is known for its quality wines and temperate climate. The grapes grow rich and juicy in the fertile soil and under the vast blue sky.

Just before you reach them you pass an Alcoholics Anonymous, and a giant wine bottle.

On Ruta 21, a main road with no signs or street lighting, you will come across one of South America’s best golf courses. Acres and acres of perfectly manicured lawn, sand traps and lakes; well-dressed men and women aiming for a flag in the distance, and ice-cold white wine served with cheese.

Photo By: Kate Stanworth

Opposite the entrance to the golf course is a road which leads to the cool, shaded oasis of the new Four Seasons resort. Designed in south-east Asian style (for no obvious reason) the resort spreads out along the river. The rooms have verandas overlooking the beautiful clear pool, and the suites look out over the extensive sand dunes. Offering luxurious spa and holistic treatments, the resort is the perfect place to spend an expensive (but ‘vale la pena’) weekend.

If five-star glamour is not your style, the renovated and gentrified Narbona is only 5km down the road. Set in amongst rolling hills, and endless vineyards, Narbona offers both a cosy restaurant which sells its home grown produce as well as two stunning double rooms available for the night.

For those feeling the need to eat cheese with flavour (one thing that Buenos Aires can’t offer) the farm sells cheddar so strong it burns your mouth as well as some of the richest chorizo and sliced meat on offer, and a fantastic range of wines.

Photo By: Kate Stanworth

Two must-haves are the small buckets (literally) of homemade Dulce de Leche, and the honey wine – which is sweet, strong and golden.

The rooms are upstairs in an adjoining historic homestead with a view over the farm, and the afternoon setting sun. Both rooms are fitted out with antique double beds, velvet settees, large golden mirrors and bathrooms complete with deep, ‘sink-into’ bath tubs.

The difference between the silver cutlery and wine glasses on the tables at Narbona, or the glitz of the Four Seasons – and the dusty, deserted streets of Carmelo couldn’t be more prominent as you dine on gourmet food and sip your vintage wine.

Carmelo is a beautiful, fading, historic ghost town from the past – surrounded by the luxuries and extravagances of today. And it is well worth a weekend visit.

Photo By: Kate Stanworth

How to get there:

There are several ways to get to Carmelo:

One way is by boat to Colonia and then either hiring a car, taking a bus or organising a transfer from your hotel. There are two options for the boat– speedy one hour trip which is especially good for the day trips, or the not so speedy three hours but at a fraction of the price. Buquebus, Tel: 4316 6500 or visit www.buquebus.com

Another way by boat is to catch the train to Tigre (departing from Retiro station), and then catch the DeltaCat which arrives directly into Carmelo. Cacciola Viajes y Turismo offer packages including accommodation at either the Casino Hotel in Carmelo or the Four Seasons Hotel. Cacciola Viajes y Turismo Tel: 11 4749 0931 www.cacciolaviajes.com

You can also drive to Carmelo from Buenos Aires as three bridges link the Entre Rios province with Uruguay – Libertador General San Martín (Gualeguaychú-Fray Bentos), General José G Artigas (Colón-Paysandú), and Completjo Salto Grande (Concordia-Salto).

Where to stay:

The historic finca of Narbona: Bodega Y Granja can be found on ruta 21, km 267. To stay overnight in the historical house, call for prices. Tel: (598) 5404 7778 www.fincaygranjanarbona.com

The 5 star Four Seasons Carmelo is located on ruta 21, km 262. Prices start from US$100 per person sharing in a double room with breakfast.
Tel: (598) 542 9000. www.fourseasons.com/carmelo

For a list of budget hotels and camping sites in and around Carmelo check at http://turismodeluruguay.com/espanol/colonia/carmelo.htm

Splurge!

To organise an exclusive tailor-made package departing from Buenos Aires including all transfers by boat and car, accommodation at either the Four Seasons Carmelo, the historic finca of Narbona, or in a local hacienda, contact sebastian@skidelfuego.com

The package can include a luxury spa experience, or if golf is more your passion, it can include all the fees and services of the superb Four Seasons Golf Course

More Info:
www.carmelo.com.uy
www.guiacolonia.com.uy/Carmelo
www.ciudadcarmelo.com