By Sam Katterfield

Visiting relatives in Porto Alegre, in the deep deep south of Brazil, I decided on a whim to stop by a city that everyone had told me about, yet of which I knew nothing: Florianópolis.

Arriving alone and under cover of night at the bus station (which is never the nicest place in Brazil to be), I began to think I had committed a grave error. Little did I know that in Florianópolis (or Floripa as it’s affectionately known by locals) I would find some of the nicest scenery, best beaches and friendliest company in all of Brazil.

Beaches

Situated on an island, the city of Florianópolis gives the visitor spectacular seaside possibilities in a small area, providing something for all tastes. The signs written in Spanish are a nod to the fact that beaches such as Canasvieras and Praia dos Ingleses are very popular with Argentine and Uruguayan tourists in the summer. Along with fellow northern beaches such as Jurerê, Praia Brava and Daniela, this part of the island is the most developed, with plenty of hotels, restaurants and other amenities for the discerning tourist.

Photo By: Sam Katterfield

Some of the best surfing in all of Brazil is to be found on the eastern beaches of Campeche, Mole and Moçambique. Florianópolis is blessed with some of the finest and most consistent waves in the country and for the past four years the city has been host to what is currently the only South American stop on the ASP (Association of Surfing Professionals) World Tour.

Further south, Armação and Morro das Pedras beaches are less crowded and developed; providing a respite from the beach vendors selling hammocks, porn and sun-block. I took the time to confess my past and future sins at Sant’Anna church on Armação; historically where local whale harpooners and fishermen would attend mass before setting sail. However if you really want to get away from it all, try the southern coast beaches of Lagoinha do Leste or Naufragados. These isolated, unspoilt spots can only be accessed by footpath.

Getting Around

Despite being a relatively small island, it can take a substantial amount of time to get around. For example, to get from Armação in the south to Praia dos Ingleses in the north took three buses and most of the afternoon. Despite this, or maybe because of it, in Florianópolis you’ll see something you won’t see in the rest of Brazil: people queuing for transport!

Photo By: Laura Trythall

If there are enough of you in your group and your funds can provide, it’s worth renting a car. Otherwise, you have two choices: stay in the centre of city, a little way from the beaches, and retain the ability to visit a different one everyday (from the centre you can catch the yellow ‘executive’ buses directly to the popular points on the island for R$4.50). If not, choose to stay right on your preferred beach and content yourself to not move too far.

Food, Drink and Culture

Florianópolis was initially populated by immigrants from the Portuguese archipelago of the Açores. Today the influence of the Açores is most keenly felt by the tourist in the comida açoriana that dominates the local cuisine. A city on the sea that was built by whalers and fishermen is clearly going to feast on seafood, and one item of gastronomy that is unique to Florianópolis is Seqüência de Camarão. The traditional Seqüência is more of a set meal of several courses for two people, so invite that nice local you met on the beach. Depending on the restaurant you’ll receive shrimp prepared in various ways, crab, grilled fish and possibly oysters or shellfish. It’s served with pirão as an accompaniment; an bland fish sauce that oddly works well with seafood.

The more recent arrival of large numbers of Italian and German immigrants has had a noticeable influence on the area, as seen in the high quality Italian restaurants to be found on the north of the island. In terms of nightlife, Lagoa da Conceição is the place to start, as it’s bars and clubs are open year round. Those warm bar-hopping Brazilians are always up for a chat, and are impressed to meet a foreigner who can speak even a couple of words of Portuguese. Consult the website listed at the end to find out the latest on what’s happening in Florianópolis.

Photo By: Sam Katterfield

All in all, Florianópolis is more of a trek than Mar del Plata and Pinamar, with taking a flight a necessity, but such beautiful scenery, beautiful people and a wide range of beach possibilities in such a small area make the trip vastly worthwhile.

Further Information:

bar do Arante, Florianópolis (BrazilTravelBlog)
www.mapia.com.br/florianopolis
www.guiafloripa.com.br